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Rats can make great pets for young children as well as adults! Rats are generally social, affectionate, intelligent and easily tamed. Even though they are relatively low maintenance, they still require lots of care, attention and exercise to stay happy and healthy.
The following information should be used as a guide to ensure your rat is well cared for and that you can share a long, happy, healthy relationship.
General Information
The life expectancy of a rat is approximately 2-3 years. Generally rats reach sexual maturity at 5-6 weeks. Therefore mixed litters need to be separated at 5 weeks of age to prevent breeding too young. Rats should not be bred before 4 months of age and should be retired from breeding when they reach 1. Rats have a gestation period of 21 days.
Female rats are called does and males are called bucks. Baby rats are called pups. Female rats tend to be more curious and active than males. Male rats are better lap pets as they are happy to laze around all day.
Rats are very social animals and are best kept in pairs. To prevent unwanted litters, 2 females are best. Two males will not fight if they are together from birth or if they are castrated.
Diet
Rats are omnivores which means they eat plants, plant products and animal protein. Humans are also omnivores.
In the wild, rats eat nuts, seeds, grains, vegetables, fruit, insects, worms, eggs, frogs, fish, reptiles and birds!
Pellets or blocks
Most commercial rat pellets or blocks are excellent well balanced diets. You need to ensure that the pellets are manufactured specifically for rats and that they are fortified with vitamins. They should have no more than 15-20% protein and should be high in fibre. Guinea pig and rabbit food is not balanced for rats and dog and cat food is not appropriate. Pellets should make up 80% of a rat's diet. They should be offered ad lib and should be kept in a heavy ceramic bowl so that the rats can't tip it over.
Fruit, vegetables and treats
Rats love a varied diet and the remaining 20% of their diet (1/2 cup per rat per day) should include fruit, vegetables and snacks. These 'wet' foods should be offered in a separate bowl to the pellets to prevent spoiling the pellets.
Each and every rat has different taste and you will need to experiment to see what your rat likes to eat.
Rats often enjoy; banana (ripe), berries, grapes, melons, plums, apple, broccoli, bok choy, sweet potato (cooked), tomato, parsley, peas, carrot, beans (cooked), pasta, nuts in shells, eggs (cooked ie scrambled) liver, oysters, chicken and chicken bones (cooked).
In summer, rats often enjoy eating frozen vegetables and fruit!!
Even though rats eat insects in the wild we do not recommend feeding insects to pet rats as they can transmit parasites.
Interestingly rats cannot burp therefore we also do not recommend feeding carbonated drinks.
Other foods that are forbidden are; orange juice, rhubarb, licorice, dried corn and peanut butter.
Water
Fresh water should be available at all times. As rats will climb into water bowls and often tip them over, we recommend the use of water sippers instead so that you can be sure your rat always has fresh water.
Housing
Rats love being with you however they also need a cage or hutch where they can be kept safe.
There are a number of different cage types designed for rats. We recommend wire cages as they offer superior ventilation. They also offer rungs for the rats to climb on and do not restrict your rat's view of the world. It is important to ensure that the wire is powder coated not galvanised as rat urine will corrode galvanised wire. It is also important to ensure you have a solid flooring.
As rats are highly active and curious, many rat owners will create different levels, activities and hiding places in their cages.
Other types of cages include wooden cages and aquarium type plastic cages. Wooden cages are not idea as they absorb rat urine which damages the wood but also leads to increased ammonia levels in the cage and can result in respiratory disease in the rat. Also, rats love to chew wood!!!!!
Aquarium/plastic cages protect rats from drafts but they have poor air circulation and lead to increased humidity and smell.
Cages should be cleaned weekly as a minimum.
Bedding
There are a number of different options with respect to bedding.
* Straw is fine although not very absorbent so we recommend that paper or cardboard is placed underneath.
* Wood shavings are controversial as many are made from treated wood and release volatile compounds which can be toxic to the rats.
* Recycled newspaper pellets such as cat litter pellets are great as they are highly absorbent and help to reduce odours. They are completely safe and are our bedding of choice.
Exercise and environmental enrichment
Rats are very social animals and love to climb over you and play with you. They love to be tickled and wrestled with. They will often chirp or grind their teeth when happy and playing. It is important to supervise rats very closely when out of their cage as they are mischievous and do love to chew on things!!! Wires, wood, carpet, homework!!! Nothing is safe!!
Rats are also nocturnal and are therefore very active at night. It is for this reason that they need to have things to do and play with in their cage when you are asleep. This is also the reason why we recommend you have 2 rats - so that they have company when you are not around.
Rats do love to run in wheels. This provides great exercise for them and is also great fun to watch.
Handling
When choosing a pet rat, choose one that comes up to you and licks/nibbles your fingers. The more a baby rat is handled and socialised, the tamer it will become.
Most of the time tame rats will climb up onto your hand. If not, the best way to pick up a rat is to scoop it under the chest with one hand and then place it on your other hand or arm. The rat will then climb over you. They rarely jump off!
If you are unsure how to handle your rat safely, please contact the clinic.
Medical Information
Desexing -
Entire male rats are docile and friendly however they often mark their territory with urine and will often fight with other male rats. Castrating male rats can help with inter rat aggression and stops urine marking. Castration also (obviously) prevents the rat from breeding!
Female rats can be speyed however it is a more invasive procedure and therefore if you have a mixed pair and don't want to breed, we recommend castrating the male rather than speying the female.
Mites -
Rats can suffer from mites which cause extreme itchiness of the ears and/or skin.
If you think your rat has mites, please make an appointment to see the vet at the clinic.
Red eyes -
Rats have a gland behind their eyeball called the Harderian Gland. When rats are unwell, stressed or their eyes are irritated this gland secretes a red discharge that looks like blood. It is important to note that this is NOT blood. The discharge contains porphyrins which colour it red.
If your rat has a red discharge around the eyes it may be unwell and might need veterinary attention.
Tumours -
Unfortunately rats are prone to suffering from tumours. Many of these can be removed surgically with great success!
If you find a lump growing on your rat, please make an appointment at the clinic.
Vaccination -
Rats do NOT require vaccination
Worms -
Rats can suffer from worms - mainly pinworm and tapeworm. Pinworms are not pathological and therefore they do not harm the rat. Tapeworm can be pathological and therefore it is important to worm your rat for tapeworm every 2 months. It is also important to ensure that any household cats are well wormed against tapeworm.
Photos on this page by iStock Photo
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